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Its liquid’s soothing, velvety consistency, alternating tender and near-chewy (like a nice bit of squid) proteins and grazing kick combine to create the sensations I’ve recalled most sonorously since visiting. The pleasantly viscous broth is buoyant with beef testicle and pizzle, with a low-simmering heat and herbaceous sibot. 5, for example ($19 easily serves two), said to be a suitable hangover remedy, had a brief turn as the talk of the town earlier this winter. The bill of fare for the latter, multi-item feast can vary, and some of Naks’ buzziest items are available on the former.
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Naks serves an à la carte offering at tight tables around the bar up front, and its kamayan dinner for $135 per person in the larger back dining room. Valdez taps preparations from his upbringing in Makati, Philippines for the menus. Dhamaka chef Eric Valdez, who helped catapult that hotspot to tremendous success, is chef de cuisine. Naks opened on First Avenue in the narrow space previously occupied by Jeepney, another Filipino restaurant that operated there from 2012 to 2021, in December. Its latest turns a focus to Filipino cuisine. Those spots, and others in the UF canon, have long aimed to “redefine Indian food” to tremendously popular effect. Adda in Long Island City, Dhamaka on the Lower East Side, Semma in the West Village and the kind-of loop-closing Masalawala & Sons in Park Slope have gathered fans and honors, including from Time Out New York and Michelin, before and since. Its original Masalawala ran for a decade-that’s a New York City restaurant decade-in the East Village until 2021. The hospitality group Unapologetic Foods has been a local industry leader for several years, and about as many restaurants. It is open Tuesday-Thursday from 5:30pm-10:30pm, Friday-Saturday from 5pm-11pm and Sunday from 5pm-9:30pm. Kanyakumari is located at 20 East 17th Street. The Food: Coastal South Indian cuisine with starter-sized plates like crisp bonda and fried chicken and fantastic curry covering a bone-in fish. The Vibe: Bustling but comfortable, with nicely-paced service in pretty environs. Beware the abundant bones in the amma mess fish ($42) from Kozhikode, whose unspiked bites are a delight, satiny and covered in a sensational curry that disappears as fast as flaky layers of malabar paratha ($5)-one of the best things on the menu to pair with anything you can-will hold it. The bite-sized pieces of fried chicken from Kanyakumari ($18) have a good crunch, too, and a much milder finish than their crimson coating might indicate.Īmong the larger plates, the goat biryani from Bangalore ($28) is scant on that protein, pretty hidden in its aromatic, nicely-spiced jeerakasala rice, but what’s there is tender with a mellow, yet unmistakable gamey flavor.
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Listed under “from Tamil Nadu,” the golf ball-sized bonda ($15/4) is wonderfully crisp and fried to golden outside, its interior curd rice creamy and just a tick tart. That means that, while you should still probably make a reservation, you won’t wait an inordinately long time to actually get seated after booking.ĭrinks come up swiftly, too, including pleasant efforts like the Curry Leaf ($18) with vodka, coconut, lime and the obvious botanical or spot-on classic martinis (about $21). Only about a month after opening, the pretty space that seats 56 awash in honeyed light, inviting you to “journey from Mumbai to Kanyakumari,” is comfortably packed, even on weeknights. Lively Kanyakumari, from restaurateur Salil Mehta (Laut, Wau, Kebab aur Sharab) and chef Dipesh Shinde (who opened the latter with Mehta in 2022) about a half-block west on 17th Street betrays that quiet. Not that I even noticed any apparent out-of-towners-an infrequent paucity in most of Manhattan’s geometrically-named geographical landmarks. On a recent walk along its eastern and northern edges a couple of hours after dark on a recent weeknight, I tried to imagine telling a tourist what it was like as recently as the twenty-teens. Union Square Park seems quieter than I can ever recall seeing it in the evening, even pre-pandemic.